2018-2019 Mustang GT JLT Performance Cold Air Intake & Lund Racing nGauge Review & Dyno Test

2018-2019 Mustang GT JLT Performance Cold Air Intake & Lund Racing nGauge Review & Dyno Test

Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com.
And today we’re taking a closer look at, installing, and of course dyno-testing the JLT Performance
cold air intake and the Lund nGauge tuner combo with one custom tune, available for
the ’18 and newer Mustang GT. You should be taking a look at this combo kit if you’re
looking to replace your factory intake with something that’s not only going to pull in
a lot more airflow, but also have a better filtration capability, with an upgraded conical
oiled filter. In addition to that, you should also be looking at the combo kit if you’re
looking to get a custom tune for your S550 specific to your exact car, to really maximize
its performance and get all that you can out of any bolt-on mods that you may have, including
the JLT intake in the kit. Before we go any further, I wanna, of course, take a look at
those dyno numbers, we strapped our customer’s 2019 GT down to the dyno, let’s take a look
at the graph. All right, guys. We, of course, strapped our
customer’s 2019 GT down to the dyno. A couple of things to keep in mind, we did establish
our baseline run, it’s pretty much bone stock, with the exception of 91 octane in the tank.
Keep that in mind for our before and after, we’re looking at 91 octane gains, not 93,
just full disclosure there. And of course, we wanna take a look at the fact that this
also has a 10-speed auto in it, not the 6-speed manual, 10-speed auto, which is awesome by
the way. We pulled in 7th gear, which is the one-to-one gear ratio, we did a baseline run
to see what we came up with, walked away with 402 horsepower, 382 pound-feet of torque at
the rear wheels. We then uploaded our Lund 91 octane tune, we installed our JLT cold
air intake with the 121-millimeter math housing. Once we install all that, we ran the car under
the same conditions in 7th gear, one-to-one gear ratio, walked away with 435 horsepower,
397 pound-feet of torque at the rear wheels. These are good for peak gains of 33 horsepower
and 15 pound-feet of torque at the rear. Great peak gains right off the bat, curve
gains are really nice as well, we’re seeing great horsepower curves of about 26 horsepower.
We’re seeing that at around 6,300 RPM, so a little bit at the top end of our power band,
torque gains looking great as well, 20 pound-feet of torque, or upto 20 pound-feet of torque
right around the 3,000 RPM mark, so at the low end. That low-to-mid range power, and
we are seeing gains all across the RPM band by the way, so low-to-mid range, seeing that
added torque is definitely what you’re gonna feel out on the road, we’re seeing bigger
horsepower gains up top. But all together, this Lund tune is producing power all across
the RPM band, so I’m very happy with our result. I would have loved to see this break 400 torque
at the rear, 397 is still very close though, and it’s a still very respectable number.
I’m very happy with the gains, it’s what you’re gonna feel out on the road. Keep in mind,
this was on 91 octane, you might be able to squeeze a little bit more out of it on 93,
especially on E85, and those tunes are available from Lund as well, but as it stands, I’m happy
with our results. All right. As you can see, the tune from Lund
and the JLT combo is a perfect match, it came away with some pretty impressive numbers,
so let’s break down all the components of the kit. Right off the bat, guys, this JLT
intake here does require a tune, number one, conveniently, it’s combined with that tuner.
That JLT intake has a 120-millimeter math housing, pulling in a ton more cold air to
make sure you’re really getting as much power out of it as you can. I actually think that’s
one of the bigger math housings built into a cold air intake tubing. Attached to that
tubing is a giant 5X7 conical filter sourced from S&B, it’s a red oiled filter, so it does
require you to re-oil it when it comes time for routine maintenance, not too big of a
deal. The oil filter is gonna trap in a lot more particles, keeping them from making their
way into your engine bay and robbing you of that power. So, it does have a very big superior
filtration capability when compared to stock. I’m also gonna break down every little detail
of the cold air intake, comparing it to the factory one in just a little bit, and I’ll
dive deeper into what it means to have that JLT intake, and all the details about it. Aside from that, guys, the Lund nGauge is
also included, we have it installed on our customer’s AC vent, and that’s exactly where
it fits in. But you really have two options with that, you can mounted in the AC vent
like we did, as you see here, but it also comes with a clip that you can attach to the
back of the gauge and you can mount on a windshield mount, sold separately, if that’s your personal
preference. Now, that nGauge is holding one custom tune from Lund, of your choice, it
can be a lower 87 octane fuel, or it can be tuned to a higher octane fuel, like 91, or
93 octane, like we have here with our customers ’19. In addition to that, Lund focuses on
really maximizing your vehicle’s performance, you’ll have a completely changed vehicle.
The 10-speed auto gets really firm shift points, it’s gonna have better downshifting, and really,
overall, just have better control and a more sporty transmission feel. In addition to that,
guys, they alter and play with some of the other aspects of the factory tune, to really
make sure they’re adjusting timing and spark appropriately while keeping in those Ford
factory fail safes to make sure your vehicle is safe while maximizing its potential. So, overall, Lund has been doing this for
years, they’re one of the most trusted names in the tuning industry, specifically the Mustang
industry. Just to give you a quick fun fact, Lund is actually responsible for some of the
quickest Mustangs out on the road, and especially on the drag strip, they’re responsible for
some of the newer 2018 and 2019 Mustang GTs running 8 seconds, 9-second quarter miles.
Really impressive stuff happening over there at the Lund racing team, and you’re really
seeing that on your own car for pump gas. In addition to pump gas, you can also pay
a little bit more to get something like an E85 tune, or a Flex fuel tune. Flex fuel,
of course, allowing you to swap between E85 and 93 octane on the fly without having to
change your tune, that option is available as well from Lund to work with your nGauge
and your JLT intake if you’d rather go that route. Now, of course, E85 isn’t available
in everyone’s area, so you wanna make sure that’s available for you if you’re going with
that tune, but you would make more power on something like an E85 fuel. You’re also getting a lot of other features
to take advantage of with the nGauge, as you can see, I’ll walk you through all of those
features in just a little bit. You’re gonna have a gauges and data logging screen so you
can track live engine vitals on the fly, things like air intake temperature, air-fuel ratio,
oxygen sensors, voltage, so on and so forth, RPMs, speed, so on. There’s so many different
things, you can track up to six of those at one time on the touchscreen in that gauge,
and because it’s mounted in our AC vent, like we have here on our customer’s, it’s definitely
within arm’s reach, very easy to read, very easy to access. In addition to gauges, you
can also data log your vehicle’s performance if you’re looking to get revisions from Lund,
they may ask you to data log, and you can do it right on the nGauge. And it uses an
SD card, which you can take out of the gauge, put it into your computer, transfer files,
update it, so on and so forth. When it comes to receiving your custom tune,
you’ll load it from your device via email from Lund, right onto the SD card, and plug
it right back into your nGauge. The nGauge also has a USB port right on the front, you
can plug a USB cable into the front of the gauge, and then into your laptop, and do it
that way, that way, if you have it mounted in your AC gauge or AC vent, you don’t have
to remove it every time you’re getting a new tune. In addition to that, guys, you also
have a couple of other features, like reading and clearing your DTC codes, or diagnostic
trouble codes, check engine light comes on, you can take care of it right on the device.
It’ll be always plugged into your OBD2 port, you’ll conveniently and neatly run your cables
under your dash to make sure it’s plugged into the back of the gauge. I’m literally
gonna walk you through every step of that process, it could not be simpler, it’s very
easy. All right. Now, if you’re looking to get this
combo kit, you can do so for just around the $900 mark, which does carry a heavy price
tag, but it is for such a good reason. The intake alone is around 400 bucks, add another
400 or 500 bucks for the tuner, it just makes sense when you do the math. Overall, this
kit is gonna change the way your vehicle feels, it’s just gonna change the way it runs, it’s
really gonna increase the performance, and overall, this intake by itself does a ton
for your engine bay and your performance, combine that with the tune, and you’re in
really good shape. 900 bucks get you the kit you see here. Install, I’m giving one out
of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, there’s no cutting, no modding, no permanent
modifications required. It is so easy, you can tackle it in about two hours, like I said,
I’m gonna walk you through every step of the process, let’s get to it. Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, a ratchet, 7, 8 10 and 15-millimeter deep sockets. It’s also recommended to have,
but it’s not required, a universal swivel joint, and a semi-deep 10-millimeter swivel
socket, T20 Torx bit is needed, pliers, a magnet is recommended, panel removal tool,
3M tape is also recommended, but not required, flat-head and Phillips-head screwdrivers,
and a variety of extensions. All right, guys, kicking things off, to uninstall
our factory intake, there’s a couple of preliminary measures we’ll have to take when it comes
to uninstalling our factory intake. Now, our 2019 GT here is a customer car, and our customer
has some under hood dress up that you may not have on your engine bay, in which case,
you can kind of skip around those steps. First thing we have to do is remove our strut tower
brace, and then our engine cover, to gain access to where the intake tube connects to
your throttle body. Now, in order to get our strut tower brace off, our customer does have
strut tower brace covers, or strut tower covers, we’re gonna pop those off. You probably don’t
have those, if not, just remove the bolts holding on the strut tower brace on both sides.
So, that’s we’re gonna start, we’re gonna start by just lifting this cover off, that
gains access to one of the two 15-millimeter bolts. Now, the other one here is under this
battery cover. Now, you can pull back that flap and access it, or you can pop the whole
cover off, I don’t find that to be completely necessary. So, what we’re gonna do is disconnect
this little plastic cap connecting the positive cable to our strut. So, once you use your
flat-head to pop that off, just rotate it backwards, it gains access to the 15-millimeter
nut, get those two off. All right. So, 15 socket, 15 deep socket, remove those two nuts.
Now, we can do the same thing on the other side, but on the other side, we don’t have
to worry about this terminal. All right. So, same thing on the side, we gonna lift up,
disconnect that short tower cover, now we have these two. All right. From here, we can lift up and remove
the brace. Now, if you’re gonna remove the battery terminal to make that easier, you’re
gonna twist off the little plugs holding on the battery cover. Like I said, a little bit
of a few preliminary measures you have to take before you can actually remove the intake.
All right. So, we get those out of the way, lift and remove. All right. So, getting that
terminal off, what we’re gonna do is grab a 10 socket, loosen it up, and then from there,
we can lift and disconnect. All right. From here, what we’re gonna do is just lift and
disconnect, set it aside. All right. Next up, we have to remove our
engine cover. Now, those are hold on by two 10-millimeter nuts onto studs under these
caps. So, what you’ll need is a flat-head screwdriver, and you’re just gonna pry up
and remove these little plastic caps, one on both sides. Now, you can grab an extension,
a ratchet, and a 10-millimeter socket, and remove the nuts down there. All right. Now,
they’re difficult to get out from here, just because they’re so deep in there, so what
I’d like to do is just get them nice and loose all the way off the stud, you can leave that
in there for now, do that on both sides. All right. At this point, if you don’t have
an oil cap like you see here, then you’ll be able to just lift this straight up and
set it aside. Now, because this is a little bit larger, and there’s an aftermarket cap,
I do have to remove this. We’re gonna take the cap off, lift up on the engine cover,
we’re gonna set this aside. Now, because I just took the cap off, I’m just gonna take
the cap and put it back on, we don’t want anything getting in there. All right. So, next up, we’re gonna remove
our PCV line, our breather line, and our MAP sensor, and then our sound tube, we’ll need
pliers for it. So, let’s get rid of these. You see this black clip here, really what
you’re gonna do is push it in with your finger, pull straight back to disconnect. This one’s
a little different, it’s got a blue tab. You’ll find that tab, you’ll pull it to the side,
it’s underneath, so it’s tough to see, pull to the side and then disconnect. So, here’s
that blue tab here, you really just pretty much lift up on it, and it allows you to disconnect
it. The MAP sensor down here has a red locking tab, pull back on the red locking tab, pinch
it and disconnect. What I’m also gonna do is, you can see the MAP sensor is still on
a Christmas tree clip, I’m gonna disconnect that as well, we just wanna give it as much
slack as we can. All right. So, sound tube’s next, grab a pair
of pliers, and we’re gonna pinch the hose clamp. It’s a really tight hose clamp, so
you wanna completely close it, and then with the other hand, wiggle that sound tube off,
and then you can let go. Now, later, you’ll have the option to retain this by drilling
a hole in the new tubing, or you can delete it and not drill, we’ll talk about that later
on, but for now, we’re gonna leave this as is. All right. Next up, we’re gonna follow the
intake tube back to the throttle body,and we’re gonna loosen up the 7-millimeter clamp.
Now, you can use a flat-head screwdriver, you can use a ratchet and a 7 deep socket,
7 short socket. I’m using an impact gun on my lowest setting, you just don’t wanna go
too hard on it, I’m just gonna loosen this guy up. Now, on the far right side of your
intake next to the filter is a 10-millimeter bolt holding it to the side, we’re gonna remove
that, you wanna hold on to this to be used later. All right. So, here, what you’re gonna
do is take the tubing, pull back to disconnect from the throttle body. Now, the intake should
be loose, so you should be able to lift straight up and away with it. All right. So, once you
get it free, pull it straight up with that factory air duct. All right. Now, our customer does have this
extension cover, so we’ll remove that. But next, what we’re gonna do is delete our sound
tube. Now, like I said, you have the option to retain it. If you wanna keep it, keep it
on there now and skip this step, but if you wanna delete it, and it includes a plug, you’ll
be able to do that now as well. So, I’m gonna pop these guys off and set this extension
cover aside. Getting rid of this guy, you’re gonna follow it up to your strut tower. What
you’re gonna do is grab a panel tool and pop this guy off, it’s got just a little plastic
retaining clip holding it in place here. Now, the next couple of steps here, guys, are gonna
be pretty hard to see. Following this back to the firewall, it’s behind this extension
strut tower brace, all the way back to the firewall where my fingers are, there’s another
plastic retaining clip will pop off. Under that, even further down, you can see 10-millimeter
nuts holding on studs, there’s two 10-millimeters that we have to remove, and that’ll disconnect
this from the firewall. Once that’s disconnected, there’s gonna be an open hole, there’s a plug
included in your kit to plug that up. So, again, you guys aren’t really gonna be able
to see much, because it’s pretty deep down there, but you will be able to grab it with
your right tools. So, what I’m gonna do next is disconnect this
plastic clip here, just like that, and then follow this guy down to that 10-millimeter
nut. All right. So, now I’ve got a pretty long extension, I’ve got a swivel socket,
and I’ve got a 10-millimeter socket. I’m gonna feed this guy down, and try to mount it onto
the stud, holding on that 10-millimeter. All right. So, I use an extension and a 10-millimeter
deep swivel socket, and I got it loosened up, the nut is at the end of the stud. So,
what I’m gonna do is use this magnet to try to get it the rest of the way so it doesn’t
fall into the engine bay, I think I got it. Now you have it, that’s the easiest way to
grab that guy. All right. With that off, you can disconnect this from the stud, and just
pull it out. All right. So, now with the sound tube out
of the way, there is that open hole on the firewall, this plug is included in the kit
to make sure you can plug that up properly. The difficult part is, it’s pretty deep down,
you, kind of, have to contort your hand down in there to get this to plug, so I’m gonna
do that. It’s gonna be, again, tough to see, but grab this plug, try not to drop it, get
in there, there you go, plugged up. Now, we can move on. All right. So, we got our factory tubing off
of our 219 G T behind me, it’s on the table next to our new JLT option, I wanna take you
through some of the similarities and differences between the two kits, and really, it’s a night
and day change. Your factory intake is over here on my right, you got the factory tubing,
I did take the lid off to remove the factory paper element filter. Now, that factory filter
is just that, a dry paper element filter, it’s a flat plain, it’s very basic, it’s something
that you see on a lot of these newer vehicles, Ford does it right off the factory line with
most of theirs. It’s…Listen, it gets the job done, right? Now, our vehicle here behind
me has about 500 miles on it, it’s really not much, so this is looking pretty clean.
But it does trap in a lot of that dirt, which is what you want from a filter, but it doesn’t
really optimize airflow. The new JLT filter is actually produced by a company called S&B.
S&B has been making filters for years, they’re one of the more reputable filter companies
out there, because they make stuff that not only last a long time, but optimizes airflow
and is way better for filtration. This is a 5X7 conical filter with a built-in power
stack open end to maximize airflow to the math. And because our tubing has such a giant
5-inch tubing on the inlet, it requires a bigger filter, which is what you get here
from S&B in the JLT kit. So, this filter here is an oiled filter as
opposed to your factory dry paper element, it’s also a multi-layered cotton gauze filter.
All those facts, oiled and the cotton gauze are way better for filtration, it’ll filter
out a lot more of the smaller particles that would otherwise not make it from the factory
filter. Now, this is also being a large conical 360 degree filter, it’s allowing for better
airflow, like I said a second ago. Now, the rest of the kit here, the JLT tubing is, again,
much larger, 5-inch inlet, 120-millimeter math housing, much larger than the factory
one, which is why it requires a tune. The larger your math housing, the more air coming
through, your computer needs a tune to recognize that and optimize for the airflow. So, that’s
how you get that result there. So, larger math housing, we can reuse, and we will reuse
our factory mass airflow sensor, as the housing is built-in. The tubing is a molded plastic,
more of an ABS plastic, something we get from a lot of these aftermarket parts, very durable,
impact-resistant, and it has a textured black finish on it, which I actually really like.
The JLT name is molded right into the materials, so you don’t have to worry about any tacky
or gaudy stickers that you get from some of the new ones nowadays. You’re also getting
a roto-molded heat shield that optimizes all of the space in your engine bay to make sure
it’s trapping in as much of the space as it can for all that cold air. And with the weatherstripping
pre-installed to the top end here, it’s trapping out a lot of that engine bay heat to make
sure cold air is staying in, hot air is staying out. What I really like about this is not
only does it do that and seals it under the hood, but it’s got this really cool molded
curve to it that goes right around your engine they cover. So, the cover’s on it, this is
really hugging that so it doesn’t look like there’s a lot of big gaps, it looks like it
belongs there, so that’s something I also like. In addition to that, and finally, in
comparison to your factory cover and factory heat shield here, the factory heat shield
has that factory air duct that extends down to your front upper grille to pull in air
from the front end. As you’re moving, it really optimizes cooling capabilities, and it optimizes
pulling in air. Now, you’re not gonna be reusing this, instead you have a new air duct attached
to your new heat shield. Now, it’s not completely installed, we are gonna have to push it and
snap it into place. I will say it is a little bit shorter than your factory one, but it
still extends down to the grille, and is gonna make the same effect happen. So, I babbled a lot, hopefully, that information
was helpful. What we’re gonna do is transfer over our factory mass airflow sensor to our
new housing, there’s also a new gasket and two new screws to get that job done. Don’t
reuse your factory ones, that’s how you strip these out, be sure to be using this gasket
as well for a leak-free seal. So, next, grab a Torx, we’re gonna remove this. All right.
Next, grab a T20 Torx socket, and we’re gonna remove these two screws. Now, typically, you
don’t need a ratchet to do this, you can typically do it by hand with just the socket depending
on how tight they are, but typically, they’re not too tight from the factory. You really
don’t wanna over-tighten these types of screws on the math housing, simply because it’s going
into a hard plastic that can typically tend to strip out, and we don’t want that. We really
want a tight seal, a proper seal, when it comes to the math, because that’s how you
throw check engine lights, that’s how you have air leaks, no good. So, removing these
two, and again, we’re not gonna reuse these screws, we are gonna reuse the sensor. So,
we’re gonna take that sensor, I’m gonna put that down here. Before we install that, guys, we do have a
couple other things I wanna remove from the factory intake, I wanna make sure we can get
all that stuff off the table and make some more room here. So, next what we’re gonna
do, is move on over to this part of the housing, I’m gonna swap this out. What we need to do
on the housing here is remove the spacer here, the metal spacer, and the bushing, we’re gonna
reuse that on our new one, so we wanna top that off now. You don’t really need much for
it, you just kind of pull back, pop out the metal from the outside, you can really push
in and remove that bushing. Perfect. Put that down, and set this guy aside, you can set
our other housing as well. All right. With all the stock stuff out of
the way, let’s focus on our new tubing, and install our math. Now, when you take the math,
what you wanna do is also take that gasket I just mentioned and slide it over the end,
you wanna slide it over the end so that the holes in the gasket line up with the holes
on the MAP sensor, if you put it on the wrong way, the holes won’t line up, so just be mindful
of that. Same thing goes when installing it, they’re only gonna go in one way, and the
holes are only gonna line up in one direction. We’ll do that first, get them to line up.
Now, the new bolts, our new screws are Phillips-heads, so we’re gonna slide those in by hand and
make sure we get it started. All right. Got that guy in there a little bit, same thing
on other. Now, again, when you’re tightening these down, guys, don’t over-tighten it, get
it nice and snug, maybe a short turn after that, you don’t wanna strip them out. All right. Now, we’re gonna take our coupler,
that’s a step-down coupler, this is gonna go from the intake tubing to your throttle
body. Now, I wanna grab an 8-millimeter socket, which I’ve got here, I’ve loosened this up
a little bit. What we’re gonna do is pop it on the edge here, bit of a tight squeeze,
but once you get it on there, you wanna make sure it’s completely seated around the edge.
Also, what you wanna do is tighten down this clamp. What I like to do is make sure the
tubing is facing up, and also make sure that this clamp is facing up so it’s easily accessible
in-car. All right. Now, this guy, I’m just gonna loosen up and make sure I rotate it
the same way. Perfect. All right. We can set this aside, let’s talk about our heat shield. All right. So, two things we need to do with
our heat shield, one, we’re going to install the spacer and bushing that I took off of
the factory heat shield, and what we’re gonna do is properly connect this air duct here.
So, first things first, let’s take our bushing, you wanna make sure the flat side is on the
inside of this heat shield, the curve side is gonna go through. So, find this hole here,
insert that bushing, seats in pretty easily, take that metal spacer with that little tubing,
put the tubing through, seat flush. The factory 10-millimeter bolt that we took off earlier
is gonna go through there. So, now what we can do is, we’re gonna take this air duct,
and if it isn’t through your heat shield right out of the box, you can put it through. What
you wanna do is, you see those two little retaining pins that are molded into that?
We’re gonna snap that in, it’s really gonna push and snap through. It’s gonna be a little
bit more difficult because it is just a hard plastic going through a hard plastic, I’m
just gonna pull, get those guys to line up. Now, what you can do is carefully take a flat-head,
if you’re having trouble, just to get it through that lip, and then from there, it will really
snap in. There you go. That way, those two pins, one is gonna be on the side, one is
gonna be on that side, and it holds it in place. So, now we’re gonna install our heat shield
under the hood. What you’re gonna do is take it and insert this air duct straight back,
like your factory one was. One thing to note here on the side, if this rubber grommet isn’t
in this hole, it may be stuck to your factory intake, so pop it off and throw that in here.
Ours is still there, so I’m just gonna move forward. All right. So, this guy is gonna
slip in here, really just trying to get it through that space there. All right. So, once
you have this guy inserted, you wanna take your 10-millimeter factory bolt and put it
through that grommet, and find that not, twist it down by hand, grab a 10-millimeter socket,
tighten it down. Next up, we’re gonna work on our tubing. Now,
as you can see, it’s gonna fit right in here and connect to our throttle body. But before
we do that, if you turn it over, you’ll notice that there’s a hose fitting already attached,
it’s like a rubber tubing here, and the fitting on the end. What I like to do is actually
plug that into this, that’s where it’s going, and it’s a little easier to do from up here
rather than when it’s installed, it’s a tight squeeze. So, here’s what we’re gonna do, we’re
gonna plug that guy into the bottom, they just push and connect. Next up, set this into
place, connect this to the throttle body. All right. If you need to, you can grab your
socket and loosen up that clamp, allows it to flex a little more. All right. Once you
have that pushed all the way on, grab your socket, tighten down that clamp. All right. Next up, we can connect our other
breather line going from the valve cover. This, if you need to, you can twist this head
to make sure it fits in properly, it’s at the right angle, that’ll click right in, it’s
good to go. Next up is our MAP sensor. Now, on the side of your housing here, there’s
a little hole pre-drilled. What I like to do is take that Christmas tree clip that we
unplugged or unhooked from our MAP sensor harness, clip that right on there. All right.
Now, if you need to, you can run some of that wiring back to get some of that slack off,
plug it right into your MAP sensor, push down the locking tab. Now, for your filter, you
wanna install a certain way. If you rotate it, you’ll find this chrome strip in the filter,
have that facing downward. All right. So, you just wanna make sure that’s on the bottom,
insert that over the tubing, rotate your clamp in the position you can see those little indents
on it, tighten it down. All right. The next step, we’re gonna throw
our engine cover back on, we’re done with the intake. Now, remember, we have this extra
cap on top, so I’m gonna remove that first, safely put that down, put her engine cover
in place, lining up the studs. All right. Once you line those up, reconnect the studs
on the cover. All right. Now, what you wanna do on this side is, as you can see, this is
kind of overlapping, we’re gonna pull back just a little bit to get this to seat, and
then the engine cover will snap fully into place. Grab the factory 10-millimeter nuts,
and we’re gonna slide them in. Now, what I like to do is put the 10-millimeter socket
on an extension, and just feed them in by hand, and then tighten them down with the
impact. We’re also gonna make sure we put our cap back in place. All right. You wanna
be a little extra cautious when doing this, because you have to feed it over to the other
side. What you wanna do is feed it under the harness on the battery, line those studs up
first, and then look over to the other side and drop it in. Grab your 15 nuts and tighten
those down. All right. So, typically, at this point, we
would be done, but we have a couple of extra accent trim we have to put back on, including
this, and we’ll reconnect our battery and be finished. All right. Same thing on the
other side. Now, before we throw this one on this side, I just wanna make sure I’m putting
that pin back down, that retainer clip back on. Now, we can reconnect our battery. We
taped it down so that the terminal didn’t touch any of the metal, but now, it’s time
to put it back on. All right. Finally, the battery cover. Last piece of the puzzle, put
these caps back on the engine cover, they just snap right in place on both sides. Guys,
once you have that taken care of, let’s get the thing tuned. All right, guys. It’s time to focus on our
nGauge from Lund with the Lund tune. Now, the way we’re gonna work this is, I’m gonna
basically plug in our wire to our OBD2, connect that to the actual nGauge. We’re gonna tune
the car just like this, with it in my hand, I’ll walk you through the tune, we’ll tune
the car, walk through the process, we saw the dyno. Once the tuning is out of the way,
I’m gonna then show you how to actually mount the nGauge, this is a vent mount, which I’m
gonna mount right here to our left side vent on our dashboard above our touchscreen on
the driver side. Now, I’ll get more in detail with that later on, we have a performance
pack, so we do have the two gauges in the center, limits us to one of two gauges. Again,
we’ll talk about that in a little bit, that’s very simple, let’s get tuning out of the way. Grab the harness included in the kit, the
harnesses is an OBD2 slot on one side, and an actual Ethernet cord on the other, which
is a little unusual for these tuner devices, but one has a very particular device here.
So, let’s grab this and plug it in, the OBD2 port is located on the left side under the
driver side dashboard. All right. Right about here, plug that guy in. Now, for video sake,
I’m gonna plug this guy into the Ethernet on the back, and then I’m gonna actually just
rest it on our steering wheel right here so we can take a look at this in the tuning process. All right. So, we got it plugged in, I’m resting
it here on the steering wheel, this is obviously not where it mounts, just for video sake,
you can see what we’re doing. Once this is plugged in, that’s your main menu once it
boots up, gauges, tuning, and diagnostics. What you wanna do is keep your feet off the
pedal, press the ignition button one time to turn it on, and now we can get started.
Jumping straight into tuning, we don’t want the power off. Jumping straight into tuning,
we’re gonna press “Tuning” from the main menu, “Load tune.” Now, we do already have our tune
loaded on the device, what we did was we used our SD card included in the kit, drag and
dropped it, obviously, Lund sends you the tune via email so you can drag and drop it
onto the SD card, we’ve got ours loaded, obviously, it says a 2019 GT auto JLT 120-millimeter,
we have 91 octane in the tank, but it’s for a higher octane fuel. So, just confirm that
that’s your tune, you’ll have one of them, press “Okay,” flash this tune. This will take
approximately six minutes, it’s very nice of Lund to include that so we know what’s
going on. Just hit the check, “Turn key on,” which it is, it will initialize communications.
Two things you wanna keep note of, one, do not turn off the ignition unless the gauge
tells you to, and two, you don’t wanna touch the pedals or anything, keep everything off,
don’t turn on the radio or anything, you just wanna let it do its thing. It will initialize
communications, it’ll save your stock tune file to the device, so if you ever wanna revert
back to stock, you’ll have that option, and then from there, it’ll flash your vehicle. So, right off the bat, once it initializes,
it’ll say, again, “Do not turn off the vehicle,” and, “Don’t unplug the tuner.” All right.
So, now is says “Tune installed successfully,” once that loading bar is all the way to 100%.
It says “Turn the key off for 10 seconds and then start the vehicle,” so that’s what we’ll
do. All right. 10 seconds, start it up. All right. So, we know it works, so I’m gonna
shut this off, I wanna walk you guys through some of the features. So, I turned the vehicle
off, I’m just gonna hit the ignition, and from here, what we can do is go back to the
main menu, we can flip through all of these options and take a look at what’s in there.
Hit that “X” right back to the main menu, what I wanna do is talk about some of the
other features of the device itself. From the main menu, if you hit “Gauges,” this is
probably one of the things that most people will take advantage of, right? Especially
with this mounted, you get hands-on and eye sight, you know, within the bird’s eye view
of the driver seat, which is great. So, we’re connected, press the check mark, make sure
the key is on, which we did, lift that load up. All right. You just wanna make sure you’re
selecting it, generic OBD2 signals work on most vehicles, hit the check mark, it’ll do
a signal scan and connect to your vehicle. Scan complete. Okay. Right from there, we’re
in gauge mode. Currently, we have four gauges, we have top
left is RPM, top right is speed, bottom left is mass airflow, and finally, the bottom right
is intake air temperature, it’s abbreviated to IAT. Now, let’s take a look at these. If
we select one of them, like, RPMs, let’s change to…see what we got. Skip to the right, we
have a couple of different options here, hit that again, you can change to the quad, you
know, there’s a couple of different ways you can do it. To display, you can change the
units, you can change the decimals, you can change the warning, low warning, high warning,
normal color, low color, high color. So, if RPMs are high, you can have it to trigger
to a different color, if the RPMs are low, so on and so forth, and then when it’s in
normal range, you can have that selected as a different color itself. So, it’s pretty
cool, you can really customize how you want that to look. Select “Signal,” we can switch
through whatever we want that to actually display as. So, instead of RPMs, say we wanna
flip through barometric pressure, catalysts temperature, Bank sensor one, two, three,
clear DTCs, command an evaporative purge. There’s so many different, fuel rail pressure,
fuel pressure, intake air temperature, different Bank 1, Bank sensor 2, and all that good stuff.
We can keep going long-term secondary O2, there are so many different things you can
set it as, and you can really take advantage, you can even hold it and flip through a whole
bunch of them. There’s voltage input, analog, air-fuel ratio, just a whole lot of things,
and obviously, I can go on all day about this. So, really, say you wanna select one, I wanna
go back and we’re gonna do air-fuel ratio, so I’ll hit the checkmark, it now replaces
that with air-fuel, it’s as simple as that. And you can do that for all four of them,
monitor upto four of these at once, super useful, once it’s mounted on our vent here,
it’s gonna be even easier to read on the fly. So, that’s definitely something you can take
advantage of. One click, you can switch over to the six at one time, give you a little
bit more, and then finally, hit “Return,” it will take you back there, you can exit
gauges. From there, you can also data log as well. We didn’t see that, we didn’t select
data log, obviously, weren’t gonna be data logging right now, but if you wanted to data
log, see how your performance is, maybe communicate that with Lund if you need revision, so on
and so forth, that’s very useful. Now, aside from gauges, there’s diagnostics.
Diagnostics, pretty straightforward, you can plug it in, you can diagnose check engine
lights, get your code, reader codes, so on and so forth. From there, you can do the read
code there, you can clear the code. The USB and SD, you can do diagnostics there, data
logging diagnostics, we wanna select “Settings,” we can change the brightness, we can select
the sleep-wake features. When we first started this, we plugged it in, you saw it almost
shut off, and we had to hit “Exit.” So, you can change that setting. PIN number, update
the SD, if you place an update file, if there’s an update from Lund, you can update it on
the computer to the SD card and then update it from there on the device. You can change
your startup mode, which is very cool. Instead of the startup and go to right to the main
menu, you can change that so it goes right to “Gauges,” which is very useful, I feel
like a lot of people would be using that feature. Since it’s gonna be mounted here, you might
not wanna be selecting it every time you start your car, you can get it to start right up
to where you want it. So, that’s very useful. Again, a lot of other device settings here,
demo mode, startup mode, you can reset, so on and so forth, hit the “X” to go back to
main menu. Overall, super useful device, especially mounted here, really take advantage of this,
a lot of cool features. At this point, we’ve tuned it, we’ve looked at dyno numbers, now
let’s get to mounting it. All right, guys. I’m in the passenger seat
here, which is where we’re gonna start with actually mounting our gauge. Now, to mount
the gauge, we do have to remove this whole one piece trim panel around the gauges and
our vents, it sounds intimidating, trust me, it is so simple, we don’t even need tools.
You can use a panel removal tool to make life a little easier, but really, your good old
hands and fingers will get the trick done. So, what we’re gonna need to do is, in order
to install that, pop the trim panel off, in order to pop this off, we need to pop this
panel off. From there, we’ll get this out, remove our factory vent, install our gauge,
run our wire up, plug it in, reinstall, very simple. All right. From here, we’re gonna
open our glove box and start on this little piece here, and what you’re gonna do is, from
the inside, pull back. Now, when you’re putting pressure on, you wanna put firm pressure,
but don’t be too aggressive, that’s how you start breaking clips and whatnot. So, from
the bottom, snap that guy off, kind of, wiggle back and forth and disconnect. There’s these
plastic clips in here that snap in, that’s pretty much here and all along this panel. So, with that, I’m gonna set this down, and
then now I can work on this. Now, what we’re gonna do is, there’s clips all along it, here,
here, here, all the way back, so we’re just gonna start section by section and start working
it off. So, we’ll start here on the corner. Perfect. Now, because we have a performance
pack, we have two gauges here, which means there’s a wire hooked onto the other side,
we just have to disconnect that one wire. Now, it might be a little tough to see, but
there’s one wire coming up, and if you just feel around back there, you can really pinch
and disconnect it. Perfect. All right. So, here’s what I was talking about, there’s these
clips, there’s blue and yellow ones, sections, there’s three here, two here, two here, and
then in the middle. Next, we can choose where we wanna mount our gauge. Now, the gauge can
go…you have two options here on a performance pack, on the non-performance pack, you’ll
have three of these, right across. Some guys like to put the gauge in the middle on non-performance
pack models, we don’t have that option here. I like to put it toward the driver side, I
think it’s a little bit more in arm’s reach, a little easier to read as a driver, so let’s
focus on that. From here, we have to remove this vent. Now, in order to do that, we’re
basically gonna be pulling and pushing these clips and popping the vent out. Now, it can
be a little tricky, but basically, what you’re gonna do is, where all the blue tape is, you’re,
like, pushing in just like that, all around, just like that, and it falls right out. So, now that we have our factory vent out,
let’s grab our gauge and test fit it. All right. So, we have our nGauge right here,
what we’re gonna do is just give it a test fit. So, really, it just slides in and sits
in this hole. Now, listen, it’s personal preference, some guys like to thicken it so it doesn’t
slide around as much, it is just like two millimeters, too small in diameter to really
get a snug fit, not the end of the world, you can leave it in there just like this.
This is a very common thing though, a lot of guys take a very small 3M tape roll and
just line the edges in here with 3M, not to stick it, we don’t even take backing off of
it, they just make it thicker a little bit so it sits a little snug. So, that’s what
we’re gonna do here. You don’t have to, but it is a good idea if you want it to sit a
little more snug, this is a very very common thing. Some guys just like to roll some of
this 3M around, that’s what we’re gonna do, we’re just gonna roll it once. And you can
really test fit it, some guys put one strip all the way around, one layer, other guys
might wanna do it a little bit more. If you want, you can take the 3M backing off, probably
not gonna be completely necessary though. All right. So, we got that on there, I’m just
gonna rip a little bit of that excess off so it sits flush. We got one layer, let’s
see what this looks like. Yeah, there you go, now it’s not as loose, still moves around
a little bit, but it’s not as loose. All right. So, as you can see, now with the 3M, it doesn’t
come out. You can see on the back, the 3M keeps it a little more seated, kind of thickens
it up so it doesn’t remove, just like that, it’s good stuff. If you’d like, you can put
a little bit more 3M and actually stick it so it doesn’t rotate, but really, when you’re
driving, that’s not really gonna be an issue, so I’m not concerned about it. So, at this point, what we can do is focus
on the re-installation and running our wire. Before we snap this back into place, what
we wanna do is make sure that Ethernet cord that connects to the back is routed up under
the driver dashboard and through this hole, that way it can connect to the back, so let’s
focus on that. I wanna set this right up here on our dashboard. All right. So, now we’re
back on the driver side, we’ve got to route our wire. This little trim panel with the
little vent holes here, we have to pop that off. You might be moving your steering wheel
up and down just to get enough space, but what you’re basically gonna do is pull back
and just disconnect this guy, I’m just gonna let that guy hang. All right. So, if you put
your steering wheel down, you get a little bit of a better gap there, pull it straight
out, lock that up. So, now what we can do is drop our OBD2 port down and then feed it
under our driver side dash. So, really, we’re just feeding that down. If you don’t see it
come through, you can, kind of, reach under the dashboard and pull it. What we’re gonna
do it just feed the majority of this wire down in there. All right. Now, pull the rest,
I’m gonna head right underneath and just pull. All right. So, I got it, I’m just pulling
this guy through, just like that. We’ll worry about the wire under the dash later, we just
wanted to make sure we pull it. All right. So, next up, this is a little bit
of a tight squeeze, we’re basically gonna take our Ethernet port and just feed it up
through the trim and in front of this AC vent. It’s a pretty tight squeeze, it might take
a little bit of trial and error to make sure you’re seeing it and pulling it through. All
right. Almost there, I’m just gonna pinch it through. All right. So, now we don’t have
to worry about this interfering with our console trim, it’s gonna be behind and tuck behind,
we just really wanna make sure we’ve got it here for right now. So, I wanna test out our
nGauge to make sure it’s working properly. So, grab your OBD2 port, plug it in down here. All right. So, at this point, I’m gonna pull
this trim panel back down, we’ve got our nGauge still mounted in there. What I’m gonna do
is just plug it in, take this Ethernet cord, plug it into the back of it, there she goes,
still working like a charm. So, now we can reinstall our trim panel. All right. Next
up, we, of course, with our performance pack wanna plug this wire in, if you have a non-performance
pack, skip that and just reinstall. All right. You wanna make sure that snaps in place, digging
the layer trim panel back in. Now, with this, we’re really just pushing all along, and you’re
snapping it in. So, here, top, bottom, sides, passenger, you wanna make sure it’s all secure,
you can give it a wiggle, as you can see, it ain’t moving, so we’re good. nGauge is
still centered, still holding in there, looking good. Back here on our passenger side, we’re
just gonna put this one piece back on, it’s gonna be right on the side here, lining up
those clips, snap in, [inaudible]. Give everything a quick check, push it all around to make
sure it snapped in. Finally, we can finish it up by getting those wires nice and neat
on our driver side. All right. We’ve got all of our excess pulled
under the dash, let’s put this trim panel back in, just kind of snaps back in there.
Perfect. Now, I’m gonna head under the dash, and what you do with the wire under there
is completely up to you. Grab some zip ties, make sure it’s tucked up nice and neat, it’s
gonna be tough to see on camera, I’m just gonna make it look a little bit better and
let our OBD2 port connect. All right. So, I got a couple of zip ties, what I’m gonna
do is shorten up this wire as much as I can, but I’m gonna head up under there and just
zip-tie it to some of the other wires and connectors. You just wanna make sure it’s
not gonna fall down into your pedals and prohibit you from, you know, keeping up with safety.
First, I’m gonna zip-tie all these together. All right. That makes it a little bit neater,
tuck this guy up in here, and if you want to, you can zip-tie that back. Well, guys, that’s gonna wrap up my review,
install, and dyno-test of the JLT Performance cold air intake and Lund nGauge tuner with
one custom tune, for the ’18 and newer Mustang GT. And if you wanna pick it up for your own
new S550, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.

13 thoughts on “2018-2019 Mustang GT JLT Performance Cold Air Intake & Lund Racing nGauge Review & Dyno Test

  1. Shop this JLT Performance Intake and Lund nGuage: https://muscle.am/30RYmF6

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  2. Wouldn’t the Manual make a bit more power then the Auto? I would love to see the Manual numbers on a tune, jlt and e85.

  3. The amount of work it takes to install a air filter is crazy. New cars never seem to amaze me with how complicated they make such a simple job.

  4. Am I the only one that noticed that he didn't run the base run to redline ? Not even close. Which would account for the big difference in HP. That's deceptive if you ask me.

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