1994-2004 Mustang V8 & V6 Eibach Pro-System-Plus Review & Install

1994-2004 Mustang V8 & V6 Eibach Pro-System-Plus Review & Install


1994-2004 Mustang V8 & V6 Eibach Pro-System-Plus
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Download Transcription Justin: The Pro-Plus suspension kit from Eibach
here should appeal to the ’94 to ’04 V8 owners along with the ’99 to ’04 V6 owners out there
who are looking to completely change the handling of their ride, thanks to a few key components,
but really aren’t interested in going with a huge drop compared to the stock springs
or maybe other aftermarket options. Now, this kit does include a set of sway bars
for both front and rear, set of brand new dampers, again, front and rear, along with
a very popular Pro kit springs, which are gonna offer a pretty mild drop for your SN95
for around 1,100 bucks. Now the site does call this a full-blown three
out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, which I feel is a bit extreme, as most
owners should be able to get this stuff knocked out in half a day or so from start to finish. But as always, guys, be sure to hang till
the end of the video and we’ll show you how it’s done. But first thing’s first, guys, let’s start
with that drop because this particular kit, again, is going to feature the more modest
Pro kit lowering spring, which will deliver a smaller drop compared to Eibach’s Sport-Plus
system, also available on the site, that’s going to be built around the Sportline lowering
springs. Now, the Pro kit springs here are gonna deliver
a drop of 1.3 inches for the front, 1.5 inches for the rear, so smaller drop overall, especially
when compared to the more aggressive two inches of the Sportline lowering springs. Now, if you did prefer more of that aggressive
drop, again, you can grab the Sport-System-Plus here on the site, which is basically gonna
swap out your Pro kit springs for the Sportlines, grab it on the site for a very similar price. Now the Pro kit springs that we do have here,
guys, do feature that progressive or multi rate spring design, which is something I always
think is a great choice for street cars because that softer initial spring rate is gonna be
relatively comfortable for cruising. But once you start pushing the car hard and
start rolling into that firmer rate, these things do tend to firm up, obviously, and
that’s where you’re gonna be reducing some of that roll even further. Now, specific spring rates for the Pro kit
springs do include 502 to 570 pounds for the fronts and 171 to 314 pounds for the rear. But along with that, improved roll control
from the springs themselves. You’re also gonna see subtle improvements
in things like weight transfer, front to the back and back to the front, so basically less
dive when you’re really hammering on those brakes and less squat when you’re really launching
hard. But one thing I do really enjoy about this
kit from Eibach is that they do pair up their Pro kit springs with their Pro damper shocks
and struts. Now, this is gonna be a great turnkey kit
for that reason because the reality is throwing the Pro kit spring on a set of high mileage
factory dampers is really only asking for a bad time, right? Rough ride, poor performance, things like
that. Now, Eibach recognized that fact, especially
with the older SN95 and completed the Pro system with their tune dampers. The reality of the situation is, guys, the
Eibach shocks and struts are just better suited to handle the stresses of that slightly lower
ride height and firmer spring rate, and therefore will produce a better ride quality, in addition
to include handling overall, especially when paired up with the included sway bars. But what do you say we talk about those sway
bars a little bit more because, again, the Sport-Plus kit does include these set of Eibach
front and rear bars here. The rear bar itself is two-way adjustable,
while the front is non-adjustable and overall a solid improvement over the bars you are
replacing. In fact, you’re gonna be looking at a 35-millimeter
tubular bar for the front and a 25-millimeter solid rear bar. Now the tubular front bar is nice because
it will save a little bit of weight compared to a super heavy solid option, but without
really compromising rigidity. But by upgrading both the front and rear bars,
in addition to the damper springs, all that good stuff, the car is just gonna be more
responsive, certainly will be flatter in turns thanks to the drastically reduced body roll. But at the same time, the car should help
rotate through those turns a little bit better as well. Now, in my opinion this is a welcome change
because from the factory I think these cars have the slightest bit of understeering tendencies
or they can tend to push through the turn a little bit, whereas with the bigger bar
set up properly, the car, again, will just enjoy a more neutral balance, maybe even the
slightest bit of oversteer depending on how you set things up, which is really just gonna
make the car a lot more fun to drive. Now before we get into the install, I do wanna
point out that the Eibach sway bars here have been made in the USA from cold form, high
strength aircraft grade steel, then finished off in the red powder coat, whereas the Pro
kit springs are given their traditional black powder coat. And that’s just to help prevent any corrosion
over the years. Now, the Eibach option does also include a
lot of nice extras, including rear links, greasable polyurethane bushings, but does
not include any front end links along with new spring isolators, which, if I can be completely
honest, I’d highly recommend grabbing for the SN95 as your factory isolators are probably
trashed after 15 to 20 years or so. Now, getting to the installation as promised,
and again, guys, the site did kick this one up to a soft three out of three wrenches on
the difficulty meter, which some of you might think is a bit extreme, but if you’ve never
done this kind of work before, it might be a bit of an adventure for you. However, to give you a detailed idea of what
you’re in for, here is that walkthrough we promised, in addition to a tool breakdown. Man: Tools used for this installation: 3/8
impact, 3/8 air impact and a half-inch air impact, half-inch drive, 3/8-inch drive, various
extensions, a universal swivel, push pin removal tool, various pry bars, a socket set ranging
from 8-millimeters all the way up to 24, you have a lug socket here, vise grips, a ball-peen
hammer, a wrench set ranging from 6 all the way up to 24, and a bungee cord. Not pictured on the table will be a jack and
jack stands. In our case, we used a lift. All right, so we’re gonna start on the rear. I have the vehicle up in the air. I’m gonna take the wheels off, just to make
that axle a lot lighter. All right, guys, so our first step is I’m
gonna get the factory sway bar out of the way. We’re gonna pop these wheel speed sensors
out of that loom right there. And I have a 13-millimeter socket on my 3/8
impact. Just gonna let this bracket hang right here
out of the way. We’re gonna do this on both sides. Now, you will need to support the sway bar
when you get to the other side because it’s just gonna drop out when you take those two
bolts out. All right, now that we have our sway bar underneath
removed, we are going to get into our trunk to access the top of our shocks. It’s really simple, we just have to take a
part a little bit of our trunk and the liner to expose that nut on top of the shock. All right, to start, we’re gonna take our
floor liner and push this forward, and kind of out of the way. We’re gonna do one side at a time, this way
it’ll give us enough room to move this backing a little over. Now, we’re gonna take a push pin removal tool
and go after these push pins holding on this little trim piece for our trunk latch. Now, these are Christmas tree type push pin. Take this piece and put this to the side. Now, we can remove our trunk liner here, set
that over to the side and get after…underneath here. All right, guys, now that we have access to
our top shock nut in the rear, I have a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 7-millimeter regular
wrench. The 15 ratchet is gonna go right on top and
the 7 is gonna go on the top to hold it in place while we loosen up this nut. All right, guys, now, before I completely
remove the nut on the top of the shock, I do have a jack underneath the rear differential. The car is still on a lift but we don’t have
the tires on there, so we can’t rest this back on the body weight. So what I’m gonna do is just lift up on this
jack, then we’ll go back to the nut, and you can see it actually separating from the body
mount there. So now I’m gonna remove the rest of it, go
and do the other side, remove that nut, and then we can drop that axle back down and get
these struts to clear the body. I’m gonna go to the other side and get that
one off. All right, now I’m gonna lower this jack and
lower the rear differential. You should see the stocks coming out. It may not go all the way. We will have to remove our upper control arm
mount here, just to get a little more travel to get our shock and our spring out. All right, guys, so I have the Mustang back
up in the air. I have two pole jacks, one on each side of
the differential. Now, I’m gonna be removing our shocks and
getting those out of the way. I have a 15-millimeter socket on this side
and an 18-millimeter wrench on this side. You can set these aside. We’re not gonna be reusing these. All right, guys, now we’re gonna be removing
our rear links. I have an 18-millimeter deep socket on my
3/8 air impact. Now, again, I have these supported with a
pole jack, so this should just slide right off. I’m gonna do that on both sides. All right, now once we have our little quad
chuck [SP] up here disconnected, we are going to lower the rear axle down. I’m gonna do this as even as possible with
both of these pole jacks. And we’re gonna lower this just enough so
we can get that spring out of its perch. Now I’m just gonna hook into one of these
coils. Be careful of your speed sensor line here. And I’m just gonna take it out like that. Now, you’ll see my rubber isolator just popped
off. We’re gonna put this on our new one as well. Let’s get to the other side out now. All right, guys, so I have the factory one
in my hand and this is the new one. I’m gonna take this rubber isolator off the
top, put it on the new one, make sure it’s seated all the way around. All right, guys, I’m just gonna slip the coil
in right there, bring the axle down. Now one thing you have to make sure, that
the back of this coil, the bottom of this coil is facing towards the rear. Our next step is to bring down this rear snubber. And what this is, basically, is a bump stop
for our rear differential. Since we are lowering the vehicle down, we
have to make this a little lower. Our kit does include a new little snubber
though. So I have an 8-mil on a very long extension
and the universal. We’ll remove these three 8-mils. All right, guys, I’m gonna take a 13-mil and
a deep socket, get rid of this old bump stop. All right, so now we’re gonna take our new
snubber and our 15-mil nylock nut here, just start it up. So it’s nice and tight, now it’s ready to
install in the car. All right, now we’re gonna bring our end bracket
back into place. And I’m gonna start these 8-millimeter machine
screws into there. Start there and finish them off with our 8-mil. All right, now we can get our shocks on and
move to the front. All right, guys, so I have our stock shock
here and our new Eibach shock. There are a couple of parts you have to swap
over, like this isolator on the bottom and the top one. We are gonna reuse our hardware in the bottom
as well. So let’s get that off. Now, for the Eibach stuff, we are gonna have
to cut this and it’s gonna start expanding on us, don’t worry about that. We’re gonna have to get it back into our hole
up there, but we’re gonna put our factory isolators on here. So I’m gonna get a knife and cut this. And you can see it expand right there, that’s
fine. We’re gonna slide the isolator and the little
cup over the new shaft there, get this into position, put our bolt through with our nut
on this side. And repeat this on both sides. All right, so we’re putting our sway bar into
place here. If you have an extra hand, I just rested it
on that pole jack there, if you have an extra hand, definitely would help. Just gonna get our bolts in so it doesn’t
fall on us. Gonna go on the other side of here, my bolt
through there, and make sure that we’re putting our parking brake bracket back into place. All right, guys, so we have to slip our nuts
through this little space right here on the backside of our sway bar. So what I have here is a 14-mil wrench. And I’m going to push my bolt into that nut
in attempts to start it. All right, now that that’s tight, we’re gonna
do that on the other side as well. All right, now before we lower the vehicle
back down to tighten down our top shock mount, we are going to tighten down the bottom. Again, it’s a 15-mil on the outside and an
18-millimeter nut. All right, with the vehicle back close down
to the ground, it’s not completely on the ground just yet, there are a few things you
have to do. I have the jack underneath the pumpkin and
I’m gonna jack up on it slowly. This is already through the hole for the trunk. And when we bring that axle up, we can get
this quad shock back into there. Yours may or may not be equipped with it just
depending on it’s a convertible or a V6 or a GT. So let’s get the axle back up in the air. You should see that gap start to close a little
bit. I’m gonna go on the other side, make sure
that my shaft is going through the hole, which there it is there. Now I’m not gonna jack up on it so much that
the car comes off the lift, just enough that I can get threads showing through, which looks
like it is. All right, let’s get the top of the shock
nut on there with the rubber isolator. Make sure that is starting on the right way. All right, guys, now that you have the top
of the shock fastened down, we can put our little quad shock back in place. This is the best time to do it when you have
the jack underneath the pumpkin, you can manipulate the height of the axle. You can just slam that home. Make sure that the collar stays in there. Gonna put our washer back over top and our
18-millimeter nut and tighten that down. Do that on both sides. All right, now moving on to the front, we’re
gonna take both of our front wheels off, get it back up in the air and get our front sway
bar out of there. All right, so now that we have our vehicle
up in the air, we’re gonna separate our end link from our sway bar itself. I have a 10-millimeter wrench just on the
shaft here of the end link and a deep 15 on the top. I’m going to take this off. Gonna do that on the other side as well. All right, now with both the nuts off the
end links on both sides, we can rotate this sway bar out of the way. We’re gonna remove these completely because
our new Eibach kit comes with new end links. So again, we’re gonna put our 10-mil on the
shaft and then from underneath, remove the links. All right, guys, now we’re gonna be taking
our sway bar completely out and replacing with our new Eibach. I have a 16-mil deep socket on my impact and
I’m going to remove these nuts. All right, so you have two on each side. I’m going to use my one arm to support the
sway bar so it doesn’t come flying out when I remove these two. Get it past these power steering lines. All right, guys, now that we have our sway
bar out, I have it on the ground, and you can see the difference just in our Eibach
and our old one. This is a lot thicker, just gonna have a lot
more rigidity, so we have to move these mounts over. So what I found, a secret trick to doing this
is you’re gonna squeeze this bracket together and it’ll slide right out, slide that out
as well. Then you can take your new bushing, put it
around your new sway bar. You have to press it in there, maybe a tight
squeeze but it’ll look like that. Slide your bracket in there to lock it in
place. And that’s ready to be installed in the car. We’re gonna do that on the other side as well. Now, that’s ready to be installed in the car. All right, let’s get the sway bar into place. It’s gonna go in the same way it came out. I’m gonna snake this end past our power steering
lines and then into place. This, of course, has to go through that right
there. We’re gonna slide our brackets through those
little…our studs through the bracket there. I have one end supported with my head, the
other end with my arm. I’m just gonna start my nuts, make sure it
doesn’t fall. We’re gonna do the same on the other side. I’m going to grab my bracket that just fell,
place that back in. All right, now with the sway bar in and where
we want it, let’s tighten down these nuts. All right, we’re still on the driver side. What we’re gonna do now is remove our brake
caliper bracket. Now, that holds our caliper on to the spindle
itself. It’s on by two 15-millimeter bolts. There’s one there and then there’s one just
on the top behind the caliper itself. All right, so now we’re gonna take these bolts
out and we’re gonna hang the caliper in a safe spot right on top of our K-member. Slide the caliper straight back off of the
rotor. Just using a bungee cord I’m gonna bungee
this brake caliper out of the way, just so we don’t have any strain on our brake lines. I’m gonna do this on both sides. All right, now we’re gonna take our rotor
off. And I’m gonna be using a push pin removal
tool to take off our ABS or wheel speed sensor. Gonna gain a little more slack here on this
little loop here, you’re gonna pull this out. And that should be enough because we have
to next go into the hood and undo the bolts for our spindle here on our strut. And then that way we can get the vehicle back
down on the ground, get a jack underneath this lower control arm and get this spring
out as well. All right, guys, I brought a floor jack into
put on the bottom of our control arm because our next step is to get the strut separated
from our spindle. So we’re gonna be taking a 21 and a 24-millimeter
to these two bolts on the backside of here. First, I’m gonna remove this ABS bracket,
that was only on by a little 24-mil nut, just like that. Set that off to the side. Now with the jack underneath the lower control
arm, when we take these bolts out, the lower control arm is not gonna wanna just rocket
down and shoot that spring up. That’d be very dangerous, so we’re gonna be
taking our time here, making sure that all the load is on this jack. All right, so I have a 24-millimeter socket
on this backside and a 21 on this side. I’m going to remove the bolt. Make sure you save this. We’re gonna be reusing it on the new strut. We’re gonna remove this nut, kind of slide
our spindle out of the way. All right, guys, now I’m gonna take a 15-millimeter
socket, set that off to the side. I’m going to remove one of the nuts and leave
one of the nuts just hanging on by two threads. All right, now you’re gonna start to see the
shock drop down a little bit. I’m gonna use my other hand underneath to
support. And I’m going to just completely remove that
nut and slide our strut assembly out of the way. All right, so now that we have our strut out
of the way, we can start lowering our jack little bit by little bit to decompress that
spring enough to remove it. So again, be very careful. I’m going very slowly. All right, so I have my pry bar, I’m going
to carefully go underneath here between the perch and the spring, go right there, and
remove our spring. Then we’re gonna keep this isolator, install
it on our new one. This one we may do as well. All right, guys, now that we have the stock
spring and the new Eibach spring next to each other, I went ahead and put our isolators
on the bottom and the top. We’re gonna put this spring away and go ahead
and get this one in there. I have my pry bar already set up on the other
side of the lower control arm, so I can press down with my foot here and hopefully just
snake this in. You’ll see the pocket here. That is where your spring is gonna go. Let me clean this out a little bit. Gonna try to get the top in first. I’m gonna go get another pry bar and hopefully
pry this up and in there. All right, guys, now I brought both of our
struts onto the table. This is our old one. You have to get this 21-millimeter nut off
there and put this top hat on to our new strut. So I’m hoping I don’t need to use a wrench
and a large flathead on here, I can just hit it with my impact. Let’s cross our fingers and see if this comes
off. All right, guys, so I have a couple of little
mini pry bars here. This is just the fattest kind of flathead
I had. So I am putting that right on the top there. And I have my 21 and I’m just going to back
off these last couple threads. We’re gonna steal this bushing and this top
hat right here. We’ll put that on our new one. All right, guys, now that we have our old
strut of the table I did take one more part off it, this dust boot and little lower mount
for the top hat. So we’re gonna install our bump stop onto
the bottom. Bring our dust boot into place. Then we’re gonna slide our top mount down
with our bushing cap. We are going to tighten down this 24-millimeter
nut. All right, guys, unfortunately, my impact
wouldn’t set that nut on there, so I have a 10-millimeter in one hand and a big 24-millimeter
wrench in the other. So what we’re gonna do now is tighten up this
top nut. You just wanna get a few threads showing,
we don’t wanna over-tighten this. All right, that’s tight enough right there. Nothing’s moving. We still have that whole flexibility. So when we get it up in there, we can just
set that top hat and get those nuts and that bolt back in. Let’s install this on the car now. All right, so we have our new strut assembly
ready to go in. What we’re gonna do now is just get it close
to where we need to go and then look at the top, and we can get our nuts started and our
bolt back in top. So let’s do that now. I’m just starting my nuts here on the top,
then I’ll run them down with my impact here in a second. All right, so we can still turn this around
and get it into the spot we need it to go. I have the jack still underneath the control
arm with a little bit of the load of that spring. So now we can start cranking up on that and
getting our spindle back into the place it needs to be. This needs to go a little that way. And we need to get a little plate, have a
little shim or a spacer that’ll go in between here to make up some of that space. All right, guys, so I’m just gonna start jacking
up on this to get our spring compressed a little bit more and to get our spindle back
into its place. We are doing this on a lift, so I’m being
careful not to get it off the K-member there or the back of the body. If you’re doing this on jack stands, do the
same thing, make sure you keep an eye on your jack stand and watch if the body separates
from that, take a little more tension off of it. This is the spacer I was talking about. It’s gonna sit in the back there, so the flat
edge to the flat edge of that little bracket. Get one of my bolts. We are gonna be reusing our stock hardware. This is the nut end, remember we had that
bracket we gotta put on for our ABS line here. Start the bottom one as well. Put my nuts in there just to keep what I got. Again, we’re gonna be reusing our stock hardware,
so on the backside we have that 24-millimeter nut and our 21-millimeter bolt in the back. So let’s tighten this up. So here’s that bracket. It says left hand on it, the other one will
be right hand. Again, all the steps you see on this side
we’re gonna performing on the other. And we can reinstall all of our ABS lines
back onto that bracket. Next, we’re gonna put our sway bar back into
place, our rotor, caliper, then we’ll go do the other side. All right, so with our spindle nuts in, we
should be able to remove this jack, take all the pressure off the lower control arm. It shouldn’t go too far because it is again
locked into place. All right, so now we’re gonna bring in our
new sway bar end link. You gotta kind of disassemble this thing. It is basically a one long bolt. So I’m gonna take the sleeve and the bottom
bushing off as well. We’re gonna slide this right over the top,
bring our bushing, our little washer/end cap for the bushing. Our sleeve, followed up by another washer. We’re gonna put that into the lower control
arm there. May need to bring the jack back and jack up
a little bit on that lower control arm. Now, you don’t wanna cover the hole you’re
about to put the sway bar end link into. All right, that should do it. Then I’m gonna get on the underside of it,
put that bushing and that cap on and then that nut. Then I need a 15 on the top and a 15 on the
bottom and we’ll tighten that and cinch that down. All right, so I have the bushing and the top
there. There we go, that just came through. All right, guys, so I have 15-millimeter wrench
on the top here and a 15-mil impact, we’re gonna tighten these sway bar end links down
now. You wanna get a nice squish out of them. That’s how you know they’re tight. All right, guys, so the next step we’re gonna
put our rotor and caliper back on. The rotor, set it right on its studs there. Make sure it’s past that centric hub, and
take our little bungee cord off of here. Bring the caliper back in place. Make sure the pads are sitting correctly. Now, I have the bolts in my hand, these are
the two 15-millimeter bolts we took out. Once it’s started, get a wrench on it and
finish it up. And now’s a good time to recheck everything. Make sure you have all your brackets in place,
the brake lines are free. All right, now we’re gonna repeat everything
that you just saw on the other side. All right, guys, that’s gonna wrap up my install
of this Eibach Pro-System-Plus. And for all things Mustang, keep it here at
americanmuscle.com.

4 thoughts on “1994-2004 Mustang V8 & V6 Eibach Pro-System-Plus Review & Install

  1. Shop this Eibach Pro-System-Plus: https://muscle.am/2UxAYJJ

    SUBSCRIBE at http://www.youtube.com/americanmusclevideos

  2. Just to be safe I put a chain on the spring. So if for some reason the spring does try to fly out the chain keeps it from going anywhere.

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